Gardening Tips    
       
 

IT‘S ALMOST TIME TO PLANT YOUR TOMATOES

   
 
By Glenda Garris
Community Gardens of Henry County
Copyright 2010
   
 

   
  If you grew up in the South, then you will know what I mean when I say “get your white bread and mayonnaise ready! “ It’s almost tomato planting time and I can already taste that delicious red, juicy tomato on my white sandwich bread with lots of mayonnaise and salt and pepper. Don’t forget your Coca-Cola or glass of sweet tea to go with your sandwich. Doesn’t the thought make you just want to run right out and get started on your tomato bed?

Selecting Tomato Plants

It’s a little early yet for planting outside, but we can start planning what tomato varieties to put in our gardens or patio pots. And we all have our favorites! Some of mine are Big Boy, Better Boy, and Big Beef. Determinant varieties are those that grow to a point, set fruit and then decline. Most of the early varieties are determinant and will not produce for the entire summer. I prefer the indeterminant tomato varieties because they will generally produce fruit until the frost; however, the plant also grows large and will need to be properly supported and pruned as the season progresses. Fusarium and verticillium wilt are common tomato diseases. When buying transplants, look for plants that are resistant to these two diseases; they are labeled VF. If you see plants labeled VFN it means the plant is resistant to verticillium, fusarium and nematodes; VFNT includes resistance to tobacco mosaic disease

Planting and Tending Tomato Plants

Tomatoes love well drained soil with lots of organic matter. The pH should range between 6.0 to 6.5 A soil test can help you determine the pH of your soil and provide recommendations for adding dolomitic lime and other nutrients. Our southern soil is often too acidic and will need the addition of lime. However, it takes a while for the lime to change the soil pH so it should be added in the fall for best results. And of course, you will need to add fertilizers as indicated from your soil analysis two to three days before planting. If you did not have a soil test, generally1-1/2 lbs of fertilizer like 10-10-10 per 100 square feet can be applied. Tomatoes are heavy feeders so remember to fertilize again every three weeks as a side dress once tomatoes form on the plant and until you have harvested all the tomatoes.

Always plant your tomatoes in full sun about 3 feet apart so there is good air circulation. And plant them deep – up to the first set of true leaves on the plant. It also is a good idea to rotate the planting sites every year. You should add 2” to 3” of mulch to your plants. Newspapers may be used around the tomatoes as soon as planted with a layer or mulch, pine straw or hay applied on top. Mulching helps to retain moisture and can reduce common diseases. When it comes to watering -- tomatoes need an inch or so of water at least once a week. Try not to top water the foliage but water evenly at the base of the plant or use a drip system to help prevent disease.

You will need to support your tomato plants to keep them off the ground. I prefer staking and tying tomatoes best but be careful not to damage the plant when doing so. Personally, I do not care for tomato cages. My experience has been that when your plant becomes large and heavy with fruit, the cages can bend and do not always provide good support. Trying to reuse tomato cages is my worst nightmare because it is difficult to straighten them out again! Maybe its just me! My preference is to use stakes with string or strips of cloth.

Blossom End Rot

Blossom End Rot can be the downfall of many a tomato crop. It is caused by inadequate calcium. A pH or 6.0 to 6.5 and properly liming your soil can help prevent this problem. If it does occur, you can treat it by maintaining consistent moisture levels and adding about 4 Tbsps. of calcium chloride per gallon of water every week until corrected. You can purchase over- the-counter remedies at your garden supply store.


Starting Seeds Indoors

If we are really ambitious, seeds can be started now for transplanting in mid to late April depending on the frost date. Tomatoes like warm soil (60 degrees) so the outside temperature should be about 65 to 75 degrees daytime and no cooler than 55 degrees at night. Several of our community gardeners have already started their tomato seeds inside. If you do this, make certain the plants have plenty of good southern sunlight so you don’t grow tall leggy transplants. Artificial light will be necessary if there is not sufficient sunlight. Your plants will be need to be hardened off a few weeks before planting in the garden. Expose your plants by placing them outdoors. Increase the length of exposure each day. Remember to bring plants in if there is the possibility of frost.

   
       
  You may write Glenda Garris at Community Gardens of Henry County, Inc., P. O. Box 3248, McDonough, GA 30253 or email her at communitygardens@bellsouth.net Community Gardens is a non-profit organization that promotes community gardening for the benefit of Henry County residents.    
       
 

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