If you grew up in the South, then you will know what I mean when I say get your white bread and mayonnaise ready! It’s almost tomato planting time and I can already taste that delicious red, juicy tomato on my white sandwich bread with lots of mayonnaise and salt and pepper. My mother used to peel our tomatoes but I don’t mind the skin. Don’t forget your Coca-Cola or glass of sweet tea to go with your sandwich. Doesn’t the thought make you just want to run right out and get started on your tomato bed?
It’s a little early yet for planting outside, but we can start planning what tomato varieties we want to put in our gardens or patio pots. And we all have our favorites! Some of mine are Big Boy, Better Boy, and Big Beef because they grow well in our area and will produce all season until killed by the frost.
If we are really ambitious, our seeds can be started now for transplanting in mid to late April depending on the frost date which I believe is April 15 in Zone 7B. Tomatoes like warm soil so the outside temperature should be about 65 to 75 degrees daytime and no cooler than 55 degrees at night. However, if starting plants from seed is not your thing, many transplant varieties are available at our local nurseries. They usually carry plant disease resistant varieties that do best in our area. Look for transplants that have thick stems, good root system and green leaves. Remember, tomatoes like full sun when selecting your planting spot. Plant your tomatoes about 3 feet apart so they have enough room to grow properly and plant them deep – up to the first set of true leaves on the plant. It also is a good idea to plant them in a different place than last year and away from potatoes, eggplant and peppers.
Tomatoes love well drained soil with lots of organic matter. The pH should range between 6.2 to 6.8 A soil test can help you determine the pH of your soil and provide recommendations for adding dolomitic lime. Our southern soil is often too acidic and will need the addition of lime. However, it takes a while for the lime to change the soil pH so it should be added in the fall for best results. And of course, you will need to add fertilizers as indicated from your soil analysis two to three days before planting. If you did not have a soil test, generally 1-1/2 lbs of fertilizer like 10-10-10 per 100 square feet can be applied. Please remember to fertilize again every three weeks as a side dress once tomatoes form on the plant and until you have harvested all the tomatoes. You can add 2” to 3” of mulch to your plants soon after you plant them. When it comes to watering — tomatoes need an inch or so of water at least once a week. I try not to top water the foliage but water evenly at the base of the plant to help prevent disease. TRY TO BE CONSISTENT ABOUT DELIVERING WATER TO THE PLANT. Uneven water distribution can cause problems with your tomatoes.
You will need to support your tomato plants to keep them off the ground. Personally, I do not care for tomato cages. My experience has been that when your plant becomes large and heavy with fruit, the cages can bend and do not always provide good support. Trying to reuse tomato cages is my worst nightmare because it is difficult to straighten them out again! Maybe its just me! My preference is to use stakes with string.
I would love to hear from you old time tomato growers. Tell us your special way of growing your favorite tomato. In the meantime, I’m stocking up on mayonnaise and white bread and sitting back just waiting for the first picking!
Glenda Garris
